La Comida

There are more restaurants in Antigua than anyone would ever be able to visit even if they lived here for years. But when a large part of the economy rests on tourism I suppose they all must be able to survive somehow. I´ve eaten at 2 restaurants so far, one a small café and the other, se llama La Fonda, was one of the most famous and expensive ($8) restaurants in Antigua. At La Fonda I ordered Un Poco de Todo, not entirely sure what exactly I´d be receiving. My plate came with refried black beans that are much more liquid than any ever encountered in the states. Los frijoles negros are a staple here in Guatemala and are eaten for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. I also had some of the most delicious but also mild guacemole I´ve ever had. The people of Antigua are known as ¨Greenbellies¨ because they eat more aguacates o avocados than anyone en the world. Even the hot sauce that came in a bowl on the table was avocado based. Tortillas are big here and are small, probably about 3 inches in diameter and much thicker than in the states. El plato del Poco de Todo also had a 2 inch square of cheese that was the consistency of feta but with less flavor and which is able to be spread on bread or tortillas.

Our host mother cooks for us every morning and night except Sundays. Sundays are the days when most Guatemalans visit with family. Breakfast is at 6:30 am each day and dinner is at 7 pm sharp. People here eat more fruit than I thought was possible but unlike the states it´s easy and cheaper to come by. And I´m definitely not complaining. Tea or coffee is served with both meals and is accompanied by el pan dulce or sweet bread. (My friend Steph and I didn´t quite understand this at first and supplied our family a good laugh when we were eating it with our meal instead of for desert.) I can´t tell if our meals have been typical of an Antiguan dinner or if our mother is going above and beyond to supply Steph and I with incredible food each day.

For breakfast the first day we had solamente las frutas y el café. The next day we had pancakes americanos y un banano. And this morning we had black beans and eggs. And siempre (always) pan dulce.

Dinner the first night was curious when we were served a plate of asian-like noodles that was tossed with bellpeppers and some form of carne mysteriosa. (Chicken-and-fish-eater-only has since been abandoned.) The second night we had rice, fried cauliflower covered in some tomatoe-y sauce, and a really good pea soup. Las night was an empanada or stuffed sopapilla type dish.

Meals at home are interesting since our mother sets two table settings elegantly, complete with all needed silverwear, a cup for tea or coffee, and a napkin. Our brother has joined us each day and usually eats the same thing but he sits on the opposite side of the large table and usually has to get up several times to supply his own cup, fork, spoon, etc. Our mom sometimes sits at the table with us but never eats much. There is a certain degree of formality that they give us which at first felt awkward but I suppose I can understand.

Perhaps more on food next week after I eat the lunches that the indiginous Guatemalans cook during school hours...